The Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collections showcased at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which concluded on Sunday, were marked by a resurgence of elegant tailoring and a sense of anxiety about the return of Donald Trump. According to Adrien Communier, fashion editor for GQ France, “There’s a desire to return to a form of elegance. Many brands have leaned into the figure of the ‘neo-dandy’.”
The runways were dominated by suits, with designers showcasing a range of styles, from loose-fitting ensembles at AMI to velvet suits at Hermès. Kim Jones, who presented his possibly final collection for Dior Homme, was hailed as the leader of the trend. His sleek, graphic suits were inspired by Christian Dior’s iconic H-Line collection from 1954-1955.
At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams and Nigo combined their love of streetwear with tailored suits, bombers, and leather jackets. The collection was a nod to the evolving fashion landscape, where streetwear’s dominance is waning in favor of more elegant, refined aesthetics.
However, beneath the glamour and sophistication of the fashion shows, there was a sense of unease about the return of Donald Trump. Several independent designers spoke out about their fears, with Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck telling AFP that the fashion world was “afraid” to speak out against Trump due to concerns about the impact on their sales.
The European fashion industry is anxious about the potential consequences of a trade war between the United States and Europe under Trump’s presidency. The big corporate-owned designers remained silent on the issue, with LVMH boss Bernard Arnault even attending Trump’s inauguration.
In contrast, independent designers like Willy Chavarria used their platforms to speak out against Trump. Chavarria’s debut Paris collection featured a critical speech by the Bishop of Washington, which upset the new president.
Despite the anxiety and uncertainty, the Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collections showcased a clear desire for comfort and coziness. Oversized garments, plush fabrics, and layering were prominent features of many collections, including Yohji Yamamoto’s quilted jackets and matching trousers.
However, according to Communier, the future of men’s fashion may be slimmer, with trousers appearing to be getting shorter and tighter. “In my opinion, we’re heading back to something reminiscent of the 2010s,” he said.
As expected for winter collections, dark tones prevailed, with brown, khaki, taupe, beige, and cream dominating the color palette. However, there were pops of color, including soft pink at Dior and bubblegum pink at Vuitton and Kenzo.
In conclusion, Paris Men’s Fashion Week showcased a complex and nuanced landscape, where elegance and anxiety coexisted. As the fashion world navigates the challenges of the Trump presidency, it remains to be seen how designers will respond to the evolving cultural and economic landscape.
The Fall-Winter 2025-2026 collections demonstrated a clear desire for comfort, coziness, and elegance, but also a sense of unease and uncertainty. As the fashion world continues to evolve, it will be interesting to see how designers balance their creative vision with the changing cultural and economic landscape.
The impact of the Trump presidency on the fashion industry remains to be seen, but one thing is clear: designers will continue to use their platforms to speak out against injustice and promote their values. Whether through their designs or their words, designers like Willy Chavarria and Walter Van Beirendonck are using their voices to make a difference.
As the fashion world continues to navigate the complexities of the Trump presidency, it remains to be seen how designers will respond to the evolving cultural and economic landscape. One thing is clear, however: the fashion world will continue to be a platform for creativity, self-expression, and social commentary.
Source: Africa Publicity
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